Agra’s hidden heritage sites demand preservation – Firstpost

During the week of Diwali, a newspaper published a firecracker that left heritage lovers stunned and shocked. A historical monument in Agra, although relatively insignificant, collapsed. It was a tower that stood on the banks of the Yamuna and dated back to the heyday of Agra – when it was one of the most important cities of the Mughal Empire, including a period as its capital.

The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) list for Agra district contains 67 monuments. Number 32 on this list is now reduced to a state of ruin. This was the corner tower of Zahara Bagh, mentioned in the ASI list as “Zohra Bagh and Riverside Kiosk”. The newspaper wrongly dated it to 1526, when Babur first arrived in Agra after defeating Lodi. According to a detailed study by historian Ebba Koch, the Bagh in question was built almost a century later under the patronage of Mumtaz Mahal, wife of the Mughal prince Khurram and later empress when Khurram succeeded to the throne as Shah Jahan.

According to a 17th century map found by Ebba Koch in the Jaipur Museum, Zahara Bagh was one of several walled gardens built along the Yamuna in Agra during that century. Like Zahara Bagh, most of the others were also created under the patronage of either members of the Mughal imperial family or the high nobility. Near the Bagh is Chini ka Rauza, the tomb of a senior nobleman. A little further on is the magnificent tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah, the father of Empress Nur Jahan. Bug was thus in an area reserved for the elite of the empire.

Except his name wasn’t Zahara Bug! After Mumtaz, Mahal Bagh passed to her eldest daughter, Princess Jahanara, and was named after her. “Jahanara” eventually mutated into “Zahara”. Even worse, some call it “Zohra”. Despite the names, the real tragedy of heritage-rich places like Agra is that so many nuggets of their past tend to slip off the radar of those responsible for their upkeep. Lack of adequate funds is an important reason, as is lack of initiative and passion.

Perhaps the biggest flaw in India’s approach to heritage management is that it is monument-centric, looking at structures in isolation rather than the larger ecosystem of which they are a part, indeed an ecosystem that may well have spawned the monument itself. Under this approach, landmarks – whether in terms of historical importance or sheer size – get all the attention and money. Smaller ones, like “Zahara” Bagh, remain to prove that God really exists somewhere.

Agra was once a city filled with such gardens and havelis – huge mansions where nobles and wealthy citizens lived. Most of them were intact even at the beginning of the 18th century. From then on, events such as the gradual decline of the Mughals to their eventual collapse and partition, combined with the decadent lifestyle of the nobility themselves, decimated them, leading to the gradual abandonment of the gardens and the sale of mansions to those who could pay, usually wealthy merchants. . Later, the mansions were sold piecemeal to various buyers, or some were simply occupied by families who needed to relocate. New walls replaced the old, elegant features such as towers and domes were demolished to make way for function rooms, and soon all structural integrity was lost. Exploring Agra today, one can notice the remains of many such lost structures.

Starting from the now lost corner tower of the village “Zahara” Bagh himself. Two months ago, it was tall, with three levels rising above the first floor, topped by a dome (as shown in the main image). Now, only the first floor remains under a pile of rubble.

A short drive from Bagh visitors get to Chauburji. Usually, the gate to the fenced complex where this structure is located is locked. But if a person looks inside, there is a square grave inside. It is believed to be the original tomb of Babur himself before his body was exhumed and brought to Kabul.

On the same side of the river lies the village of Kachhpurawhich is considered a not too safe part of the city to visit due to some alleged anti-social elements residing there. In an earlier era, it witnessed the construction of a mosque by Humayun. The building is still in use.

Etmadpur: Outside Agra, on the road to Tundla, this was once an elaborate tomb complex on one side of a large body of water. In the middle of the reservoir there is an octagonal gazebo, connected to the edge of the reservoir by a dam. In the tomb lies a nobleman named Itimad Khan, who died around 1578. It seems that in the late 19th century, British troops used the site as a camp, carving their names and dates into the walls, making their graffiti now a part of our history.

Fatehabad: Located east of the city of Agra, at a place named after Aurangzeb’s victory over Dara Shiko, lies a small complex. Some of the buildings here had been converted into government medical facilities when this author last visited the place. Some of the exquisite pavilions of the complex are overgrown with vegetation and falling apart.

Tal Firoz Khan: originally a village near Agra on the road to Gwalior, now absorbed by the growing city. The village was built around the tomb of a Mughal nobleman named Firoz Khan, a eunuch who may have served Shah Jahan. His magnificent red sandstone tomb, built on two levels and richly decorated, is still standing. The water body – “tal” – is now filled with garbage and has significantly decreased in size. Soon it may disappear, taking away part of the ecosystem of the monument and making visitors wonder about the name of the village.

Suraj Bhan ka Bagh: Located not far from Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra, this monument is strangely in private hands in a gated complex. Although no trace of the bug remains, a large red sandstone gate stands with rich carvings on the exterior.

Tomb of Ladli Begum: This is a classic example of a monument that no longer exists, and whose very existence is now only a legend. The tomb is said to have been on the old road from Agra to Delhi. Now there are no signs!

Some opinions, dating back more than a century, say that the tomb was sold to wealthy merchants from Mathura, who demolished it, using the land for various purposes. Given that the only known Ladli Begum – Nur Jahan’s daughter from her first marriage – was buried next to her mother in Lahore, there is also some doubt as to whose grave this was.

These examples are just a few from the city, which has hundreds of impressive monuments. And unlike them, there is not a billboard parked next to many of them announcing the protection of their existence by the state. As much a part of the city’s past as the Taj, they need documentation and some preservation to survive. One hopes that the loss of “Zahara” Bagh will spur some people into action.

The author is a heritage researcher by inclination with a penchant for seeking out obscure places. A brand consultant by trade, he tweets @HiddenHeritage. The views expressed in the above material are personal and expressed solely by the author. They do not necessarily reflect the views of Firstpost.